Honganji, Tsukiji

If awards were being given out for the most untemple like temple in Japan,  Honganji would be a strong contender.  A Jodo shinshu sect temple, that's located not far from Tsukiji fish market,  it looks rather more like an art gallery, or European parliament building than it does a Buddhist temple.  I have passed it many times, usually when visiting Tsukiji markets or visiting a friend who was being treated at the National Cancer Centre across the road, but never popped in to see it. 

Today was the day, inspired partly by Katsu, a friend in Kyoto who suggested it, partly because it's somewhere that I have been meaning to go, and partly because the Tsukiji Harumi map was on the top of the walking tours of Tokyo pile that I picked up at Tokyo Metropolitan Govt a couple of weeks ago.  

In terms of architecture, Honganji is obviously different, but more striking for its difference was the attitude.  I get a headache trying to discern the differences between Jodoshu, Jodoshinshu, Tendai, Soto Zen, Rinzai Zen, Nichiren and its manifestations, Shingon and any and all sects that I haven't mentioned, but Honganji's Jodoshinshu was the first time to see what appeared as inclusive Buddhism in Japan.  Hiro was hungry so we didn't stay long, though I was interested to note they have English seminar there each month (just what I might need if I am ever going to contribute to a Zen text translation project I agreed to do months ago when I had a whole lot more time).

I intend to go back again someday to check out out in more detail.



Honganji

Chanting for what looked like a memorial ceremony up the front

other people were coming and going as they pleased.

In such a grand  marble building in Europe, I doubt cattle would be

 the animals on the bannisters.

ditto

Looking out to a courtyard

Unorthodox for  a Japanese temple..

Detail above the door

http://tsukijihongwanji.jp/tsukiji/index_e.html The link to the temple homepage.

Hiraizumi - Motsuji

We made our way down the hill, through a tunnel of cherry blossoms in full bloom, past the railway station and the bicycle rental shop to Motsuji, arriving half an hour before the 6pm closing time.  Like Chusonji,  it was largely destroyed by the soon to be Shogun, Mimamoto Yoritomo.  There is little evidence of its former grandeur but a peaceful garden with a lake and  irises donated by Tokyo's Meiji Shrine, and no other visitors made for a pleasant detour.

A translation of a haiku written by Basho, arguably Japan's most eminent haiku writer,  in the 1600s when he visited Motsuji.  According to the temple's information, he was reflecting on the life and death of Morimoto Yoshitsune, (brother of the shogun-to-be) a much revered folk hero in Japanese history who was forced to kill  his family and then himself rather than risking forfeiting the fiefdom of his protector.

A weeping cherry

Iris beds

"Coastal rocks" in the lake, with an unfortunately tacky looking dragon boat behind.

Late afternoon by the lake

http://www.motsuji.or.jp/english/keidai/tatemono/tatemono02.html

Engyoji

Outside Himeji, at the terminal station of Bus number 8, is a ropeway that goes up Mt Shosha to Engyoji, a temple of the Tendai sect of Buddhism. Engyoji is one of Tendai's main temples and is also on the pilgrim circuit of temples and shrines in Western Japan.  East Asian religion is noteable for it's tendency to syncretism and the pilgrim circuits in Japan tend to be inclusive of all Buddhist sects as well Shinto.  Pilgrim passports are available - with each temple and shrine having its own stamp.

On arrival at the top we had the option to either walk or take a minibus.  It was a nice day and only a km or so, so we opted to walk.  The fact that their bus fee gets marked down as a donation to the temple, to avoid tax liability also rankles, perhaps more than it should.

Anyway it was a good decision. Aside from the fresh mountain air and good weather, it was pretty; the dirt road meandered up the mountain through the trees lined with Buddhist statues (that look like Hindu gods)  and donation stones to the temple bearing the names of the donors and how much they donated...

A Vishnu like statue along the way

A meandering path - the fence on the left is made of stone donation pillars

A jizo protecting a cemetery on the way up

Maniden, this is the main building.The original building, thought to have been built in the 900s,  burned down  in 1921 and was re-opened in 1933.

Lanterns at the temple with chrysanthemum, the symbol of the emperor (and to that extent of Shinto), with the ancient Buddhist manji (swastika) symbolizing the intersection of love and intellect.  Temples have been persecuted at various stages of history, in Meiji and the prewar era many temples were at pains to show they were not a threat to imperial power.

The roof of Maniden. Master craftsmen needed for this kind of detail.

A statue of Buddha

A cedar tree thought to be 700 years old - still going strong.

The jikido, or dormitory for monks is on the left and now houses treasures of the temple -statues of Buddha, the godess of Mercy, protector gods among others.  Unfortunately none is labeled in English, and the Japanese labels give no indication of age or significance. It was originally built in 1174 (Muromachi era), but was dismantled and reconstructed in 1963.

The Daikodo is on the right. It was originally built in the late 900s, but was dismantled and reconstructed in 1956. 

 Part of the last samurai was filmed on location here

.

Spectacular wood work

This isnt bad either.

Wood doesnt last forever... this is a beam that was replaced due to internal rot.

Jizo dedicated to mizuko (water babies), babies that did not survive to be born alive.  To buy a statue here for dedication costs 30,000Y.

Practical information about how to get here etc can be found at

: http://www.himeji-kanko.jp/en/spot/ss014.html

The details of the temple came from their tourist guide.