Wednesday, 7 May 2014

Golden Week, (1) the lack of one and a few musings on the right & history

Golden Week came and went with little fanfare this year.   Two of my universities tend not to take public holidays so on Showa Day - 29th April - the day that celebrates the birth of Emperor Showa (aka Hirohito) I still had classes. Since I consider the day a symptom of the nationalistic march right, I couldn't really object to having to work.  I tend to lose track of holidays at this time of year, but I had Mon & Tues as holidays which made for more of a Golden Weekend rather than a Golden Week.

The nationalistic march right has been plaguing my mind for a while.  Aus PM Abbott's visit here was lauded by the media in Aus, but it's  unsettling to see Australia aligning itself overtly with a nationalistic Japan against China.  I don't have anything particularly constructive to say about Japan's lurch to the right; nor am I at ease with China's regional stance, particularly on territorial matters which relate to the Philippines and Vietnam as much as Japan.

I'm dismayed though by news over the weekend from the  right wing Sankei Shimbun (newspaper) that the Ministry of Foreign Affairs is about to embark on a "propaganda war" to correct the mis-history that the neighbours (China and Korea) are keen on propagating. I don't understand why it's so difficult for countries to look former combatants in the eye and sincerely say "we were wrong".  Whether it's Japan and China or Korea, whether it's China looking at the Cultural Revolution, student protests in Tienanmen Square, (ongoing) treatment of Falun Gong members. etc, or whether it's reconciling Korea's less glowing post war history. The irony of President Park being virulently anti Japanese when her father served as elite military in the Japanese army and was fiercely anti-democratic implementing martial law seems to be lost on western commentors who like Fox news seem to find it difficult to distinguish between Koreans and Nepalese.

The other day in a Japanese society class I asked students which country had most influenced Japan the most through history. I got a few answers and gave them a multiple choice of 4: China, Korea, US, Netherlands/Holland.   Almost 2/3 of the class said Holland; a couple said the US and the remainder China. Even really good, smart, switched on students said Holland.... Several students were surprised that Japanese kampo 漢方medicine had its origins in China. When they thought about the kanji, they realized that I wasn't making it up.

Much of the Meiji era (1868-1912 - the reign of Emperor Meiji)  was spent trying to gain the respect of the west, which meant distancing the country from Asia.   The work that epitomizes the shift from Asia to the West is Datsu-a-ron . I've put a link to a translation of it, though a caution that the blog that it's on is quite hostile to Korea. (It makes some fair points but much of it is tiresomely childish in the childish way of nationalists in the region).

I was  quite shocked years ago in Aus when one of my Japanese work associates told me that "Japanese are white Asians".  It didn't make any sense to me at the time - though it presumably made sense in apartheid South Africa where Japanese (for economic reasons) were considered white.  (Correct me if I'm wrong Ru)  In Japan though it's a common sense, at least among a reasonable part of the population, that Japan isn't Asia.

In Meiji times, Asia was the past and the west was the future. Today nationalists in Japan today (who are arguably no worse than the nationalists elsewhere in the region) struggle to grapple with the change in the economic situation of the region and aggressively assert the right for Japan to revise the constitutions and have a standing army. At the same time Japanese of most persuasions are tired of China and Korea complaining about war history and fail to appreciate the genuine irritation in both countries about  Yasukuni visits. The gulf seems so wide sometimes...

The gulf is evident at the individual level as much as the national level.  Each year I usually have a couple of Chinese students.  The students studying here from China are probably not typical of Chinese students, but invariably they are so much more switched onto the realities of the world than their Japanese classmates.  This is neither praise nor criticism, it just is.  Japanese students are much more likely to want to go to a poor country to "save" poor children.  Chinese students are more likely to want go to a poor country to "employ" poor children.  There's merit in both.   Japanese students are more likely to want good social welfare; Chinese students good laws.

It's living in an idealistic bubble, but I wish the region could put historical point scoring behind it and work on a better future for all...




Shinjuku dori in Yotsuya
just up from the station towards Kojimachi.
Usually national flags are flown on national holidays;
this was not a public holiday.
There is still a strong association between the flag
and the ultra-right wing. It's not particularly fair
perhaps but flags like this remind me of the "spider flag"
from the Sound of Music...


An LDP poster urging support for those who
defend Japan... He looks a bit like a French
Hitler though....

Friday, 2 May 2014

The end of an era - a microcosm of society


The 30th of April was the closing day for our local bottle shop (saka-ya / off-license). A saka ya here often isn't just a bottle shop. They have milk and eggs, flour, curry paste, potato starch and other general store goods that general stores had before the age of convenience stores.  They also had takkyubin parcel delivery, stamps and Hiro's vice - cigarettes.

They are incredibly nice people. They would check that my kanji was legible sending parcels, checked my understanding on documents if it was urgent and Hiro was at work.  I could ask them advice on Japanese quirks. They had a fold-up seat for oldies  to sit and chat, and they did. They kept an eye on a lot of people, did home deliveries. We called them the Happy Chappies, Mr and Mrs Happy Chappy.  I don't know what their real name is even though I've been going there since I came to Japan, and even since Hiro moved into the neighbourhood 27? years ago.

We send o-chugen / o-seibo  mid year and end of year gifts and Mrs Happy Chappy would tell me to bring the previous dispatch slip to get a 50 yen discount on each parcel being sent - like frequent flier points.  I couldn't find them last time and I told her not to worry; I'd make a note of them for next time.  Hiro popped in the next day and they had a piece of paper with 150 yen taped to it; she'd gone back through their records to find the slips...  I have a picture somewhere, which I'll post if I can find.

It's very sad to have them gone.  They're staying on in the neigbourhood but closing the shop.  In the age of 24 hour convenience stores and Kakayasu cancer (as Hiro and I call the cheap ubiquitous bottle shop chain with no limit home delivery alcohol - one bottle is OK...)   the times had changed.  It was a little more expensive to shop there, but only a matter of several yen, sometimes things were cheaper.  But the convenience store doesn't have seats for oldies and Kakayasu wouldn't check my kanji if I asked.


They had a half price sale in the last few days. Hiro thought we shouldn't buy things; I thought if they're left with things it's a problem. I figured I could get them a nice pot plant of some description.  We have a pile of cheapish cab sav - they didn't cater for the medium - top part of the wine buyers market.  I guess come the winter it'll be ideal for mulling.  When life hands you cheap cab sav, turn it into mulled wine.

It's sad though, and a sign of the society. Yesterday I had a class which involved discussion of a consumer / trade union campaign to improve the wages of workers in Bangladesh.  The students couldn't see how the consumer was connected to the workers producing it.  There's very little sense of consumer power being economic democracy. There is no equivalent word to Walmartization to describe the life sucking effect of Aeon malls in rural areas.   It's not very surprising that there's no awareness of the power of the consumer given that so much of the country doesn't really seem to believe in voters' power to change things through the political system.  I don't think that's much consolation to the Happy Chappies though.

Sunday, 13 April 2014

Asukayama, Nanasha jinja & The best late blooming sakura in Tokyo?

On Friday (my preparation day.. in theory) I met a few friends for lunch and an has an extremely interesting guided tour of the Eiichi Shibusawa museum, which is located on the edge of the Asukayama park precinct. Shibusawa was one of the powerhouse movers and shakers of the Meiji era. The old buildings there are impressive, particularly the teahouse which is an eclectic mix of Western and Eastern design.
The outing fortuitously co-incided with the Yae Zakura (sakura) season in Asukayama.  They Yae Zakura bloom later and last longer than the typical somei yoshino sakura that you see in most places in Tokyo.  They were magnificent.
They were so good that I took Hiro back yesterday. We wandered up from Asukayama to Komagome past Nanasha Jinja (shrine).  It also has beautiful Yay






The wisteria will bloom soon





A laid back day in the park. The regular hanami season has ended in most places.
This is a bit like a Tora-san movie that harks back to the Showa era.
It's like a 1970s timewarp. (pre-bubble Japan) except that almost every
group that was picnicking was drinking wine....



Shibusawa Museum

The Shibusawa museum building, built as a library, but the
documents to go inside were burned down in the Kanto Earthquake,
just before being moved to this safe house.


A juggler performing for kids in the park




Shibusawa Museum's teahouse





Varieties of Yae Zakura at Nanasha shrine 
Confucius and Mencius
Such beautiful sakura and almost no-one there.


Nanasha jinja is at Nishigahara 2-11-1 - just next to the Takinogawa police,  at little towards Komagome/Tabata from the Shibusawa museum.

Saturday, 12 April 2014

Cherry Blossoms 2014



Sakura-zaka in Roppongi ichome

Sakura zaka going down towards the ANA

Sakura zaka

Kitanomaru Park

Chidorigafuchi


Chidorigafuchi


Kitanomaru Park
Chidorigafuchi



Chidorigafuchi
Escaping the crowds at Chidorigafuchi
Shakuji gawa

Shakuji gawa


The bloom on someiyoshino variety in particular is so short lived
By the Shakuji gawa in Itabashi
Shakuji gawa: blossoms and petals